Okpilak River Packraft - June 2024

Last June, Nyssa, Hazel, Charlee, Tony, Charlie and I headed north for our solstice pilgrimage to the Arctic. In Fairbanks, we met with Kirk Sweetsir who flew us in his bushplane to where the Hulahula River cuts through the Romanzoff Mountains of the Brooks Range. From there, we worked our way down the Hulahula to the edge of the coastal plain where we portaged to the Okpilak River. We explored the country around the Okpilak Hot Springs then floated the Okpilak to the edge of the coastal plain before one last portage to Kaktovic and our flight home. I think this is a close replica of a trip that Ken Hill, Robin Beebee, Ed Plumb, and Seth Adams did years ago - I'm sure others have done it as well.

The adventure started early on a Saturday June morning in Fairbanks as we dragged ourselves out of bed, injected caffeine into our groggy brains, and Ubered to Wright Air. We dropped off the Charliees and Tony who would fly to Arctic Village in one of Wright's Cessna Grand Caravans where Kirk would double back to get them after dropping us off at the landing strip.

Typical of operations serving rural Alaska, Wrights wasn't open yet, and we left the trio standing outside to figure out finding breakfast while we went looking for Kirk. The Yukon Air hangar was also deserted upon our arrival and it was our turn to work on breakfast while we waited for Kirk. Breakfast was on the way by the time Kirk pulled up in his Subaru. Then we started digging around for the bear spray and fuel he has stashed for us and stuffing our gear into his Cessna 185. Packing was pretty quick and we are soon airborne and leaving Fairbanks behind. As we flew north, the foothills of the Brooks Range begin to grow out of the vast northern coniferous forest. 


The taiga melted away below replaced by surreal barren mountains rising around us. These peaks aren't tall, but they cut into sky with their raw untamed beauty. 


As we passed the continental divide, and flew into the Hulahula watershed, I was filled with excitement to explore this wild place of caribou, pastel colors, and beautiful rivers.

Sadlerochit River Packraft - June 2023

On a Friday night in the middle of June of 2023, Nyssa, Tony, Zack, and I flew north out of Anchorage for ten days in the Brooks Range. In Fairbanks we sardined into a small room at Pike's Waterfront Lodge, poached the Princess Cruise's greasy breakfast buffet, then crammed into Kirk Sweetsir's Cessna 185 for the flight into the Arctic.


Our route was based on that of many that came before us. From the Marsh Fork we planned to float down the Canning River to Cache Creek. We'd hike over the Cache to the Sadlerochit River for the float to the edge of the mountains. Then, a short crossing to the Hula Hula River for the paddle to the coast. Finally, there would be the slog across the lagoon to Barter Island for the flight home from Kaktovic.

As Kirk's taildragger climbed above the taiga forest and bending rivers of the interior, we left civilization behind.


Flying with legends like Kirk is always a treat. I love to live vicariously through the stories of these cowboys of the north.